Base yourself at the luxurious Magnolia Hotel & Spa. Start your day with a five-minute walk to Discovery Coffee’s Blanshard Street location for an Americano and a Yonni’s doughnut before wandering down Fort Street and into the many antique stores. Shop for old-school gems and retro treasures at funky Zeitgeist Vintage Store and at Charmaine’s Past & Present Home Collection. After a lunch of Crispy Chicken Tacos at Tacofino on Fort Street, walk 20 minutes to the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria to admire the paintings of Emily Carr, a Victoria-born legend. Then, walk 25 minutes down View Street to Government Street for a little shopping at Sitka, a local surf, clothing and lifestyle store. Return to the Magnolia for dinner at the hotel’s recently opened restaurant, The Courtney Room, an elegant spot known for its seasonal cuisine.
Day 2
Phillips Brewing and Malting, photo by Dan Reid
Enjoy a late brunch at the Jam Café, which serves all-day breakfast. Then, make your way to Chinatown to explore its many stores; visit Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Canada, to purchase rare records from The Turntable and leather handbags from Jovee Handcrafted. Continue across Pandora Avenue to browse The Regional Assembly of Text—a stationery store—and Tonic Jewelry. Shop for clothing from Oxford and Still Life on boutique-packed Lower Johnson Street before walking north to Phillips Brewing and Malting’stasting room for a pint. Spend the rest of the day in the artsy Fernwood neighbourhood; look for vintage clothing, local art and ceramics in Luna Collectivebefore having a charcuterie dinner at Stage Wine Bar. Finish with a theatre production at Belfry Theatre: Mustard and Griffin & Sabine are its final two shows in 2018.
How do you choose the 50 best hotels in Canada? When we set out to make this honorary list, it sounded so simple: Choose hotels our editors and highly experienced travel writers have stayed at and like for their service, design and amenities, and then shorten the list down to 50.
But with such an extensive number of exemplary properties in the country, it proved to be more difficult than that. So, our senior editor, Michele Sponagle, our regular contributors, Waheeda Harris, Sandra MacGregor and Doug Wallace, one of our guest contributors, Karen Burshtein, and I laid out our individual lists. We each chose hotels that are not necessarily the fanciest or the most expensive—although there are properties in the final list that are pretty darn posh—but ones we felt have exceptional service, great ambiance, quality amenities and superb style.
Miraculously, there were some hotels we all agreed should be on the list; others, we discussed and, yes, there was even some cajoling involved as we stood up for our favorites. Finally, we reviewed what our readers had suggested and created the final 50.
From there, each writer, myself included, independently chose our top 10 hotels in order from the list. The ones with the most votes, determined their final placement. With rare exception, at least one member of our team has stayed in each of the properties that made the final cut; hotels that weren’t reviewed directly by us had to be highly recommended by a number of respected, independent reviewers.
Here, then, we’re pleased to offer our 2018 list of the 50 best hotels in Canada, as determined by our team—some of the best professional travel writers in North America with more than 100 years of collective experience reviewing hotels.
15. The Magnolia Hotel & Spa, Victoria, British Columbia
With only 64 rooms, this contemporary independent hotel has the capacity to give better-than-good service. The location of The Magnolia Hotel & Spa is good, too—close to downtown, the inner harbor, government buildings and the courthouse. The destination restaurant, The Courtney Room, helmed by chef Sam Harris, is superb. Do try the tasting menu.
(Photo courtesy of Leila Kwok/The Magnolia Hotel & Spa)
Vancouver Island is fast becoming a national culinary powerhouse, and no wonder — it boasts a remarkable bounty of fresh, local produce.
Joanne Sasvari
Updated: September 6, 2018
A tapestry of fresh seafood at Tofino Marina Resort on Vancouver Island. Leila Kwok for Tofino Marina Resort
Is there something in the water? The soil? The air? Or simply the kitchens?
Whatever the magical ingredient is, it seems that Vancouver Island — from Victoria to Tofino to the surrounding Gulf Islands — has suddenly become a national culinary powerhouse.
Take this year’s enRoute Magazine nominations for Canada’s best new restaurants. Two Island restaurants made the list of 30: Victoria’s chicly French-accented The Courtney Room and the casual smoke-scented 1909 Kitchen in Tofino.
In comparison, foodie Vancouver had just one on the list, chef JC Poirier’s nostalgic temple to butterfat, St. Lawrence. (The winners will be announced on Oct. 25, canadasbestnewrestaurants.com.)
Lest you think this is an aberration, just glance back at the last few years: To 2016, when Victoria’s Agrius came in at No. 4 overall; 2015, when tiny Pilgrimme on Galiano Island was No. 3; and 2014, when Tofino’s Wolf in the Fog took first place in all of Canada. That’s a lot of recognition for an area with only about two per cent of the nation’s population.
So just what’s cooking over there across the Strait of Georgia?
The sun-drenched dining room with a view over Clayoquot Sound at 1909 Kitchen at Tofino Marina Resort on Vancouver Island. Courtesy of Tofino Marina Resort
Escape from the city
“It’s a sign of the times,” says Paul Moran, executive chef of 1909 Kitchen. “People are moving out of the big city and spreading themselves across the province.”
As in so many other industries, Vancouver’s astronomical real estate prices are driving talented young chefs out of town to smaller, more affordable communities. Chris Whittaker, formerly of the Listel Hotel’s Forage and Timber, is just one. He recently packed his knives and headed off to Quaaout Lodge in the Shuswap, where he can hunt, forage and raise his young family in a beautifully bucolic setting.
The island, though, has a special draw beyond budget-friendly accommodation. It also boasts a remarkable bounty of fresh, local produce that presents a delicious palette for a creative chef.
From the Saanich Peninsula and Cowichan Valley in the south to the Comox Valley in the north, almost everything grows on or around the island: dairy, poultry, lamb, orchard fruits, berries, vegetables, wine grapes, even exotica such as lemons, olives, kiwi fruit and tea leaves.
“We have some of the best produce in the world, and we have some of the best seafood,” says Sam Harris, executive chef at The Courtney Room.
Moran adds, “All the different micro regions on the island and the different ingredients they produce, whether it’s east coast or west coast, are definitely what appeals to me.”
Sam Harris, executive chef of The Courtney Room restaurant at the Magnolia Hotel in Victoria. Leila Kwok for The Courtney Room
A recent evolution
The culinary scene wasn’t always like this.
Vancouver Island’s culture has long been influenced by its British colonial history. That meant you could always find a decent bowl of chowder or basket of fish ‘n’ chips. But good luck finding other ethnic dishes, let alone the nouvelle cuisine that was so fashionable elsewhere in the 1960s and ’70s.
Back then, Victoria had Pagliacci’s for kitschy pasta, the Empress for fancy roast beef dinners, Ming’s for Chinese, and countless tea rooms serving a proper afternoon cuppa. Up island was a bit of a culinary wasteland.
Then three significant things happened.
In 1979, Sinclair and Frederique Philip opened Sooke Harbour House, a.k.a. “Chez Panisse north,” where they served shellfish from the waters off the Whiffin Spit, chickens raised by the neighbours, wild mushrooms foraged from the forests, and a confetti of edible flowers plucked from their own gardens.
In 1984 John Mitchell and Paul Hadfield opened Spinnakers, Canada’s first brew pub, in the Victoria suburb of Esquimalt. They designed it to be a welcoming “public place” where guests could enjoy good food, good beer and good company — a marked departure from the sadly punitive drinking dens typical of the 1970s and ’80s.
Then in 1996, the Wickaninnish Inn flung open its doors on Tofino’s Chesterman Beach, and head chef Rod Butters sent his hapless apprentices cycling down to the docks for fresh crab and prawns, confident he could serve Relais & Châteaux-worthy food in the wilderness.
These three establishments proved not only that chefs could create world-class cuisine from local ingredients on Vancouver Island, but that people would travel from all over the world to enjoy it.
A community of eaters and cooks
Today the island boasts ingredient-driven restaurants in just about every community from Port Renfrew to Port Hardy, as well as dozens of food artisans, wineries, breweries and distilleries making delicious things from local produce.
But just as important as the ingredients that come from the sea and soil are the people who transform them into food and drink.
“I think we have a real movement of chefs and other hospitality professionals really embracing what we are,” Harris says.
“We have a lot of creative people who love being here and can do a lot of captivating food.”
It helps that the Island has such a strong, supportive food and drink community, which comprises, among others, the prestigious culinary arts program at Vancouver Island University, the Island Chefs Collaborative connecting chefs with farmers and food artisans, and North America’s first Slow Food Community, Cowichan Bay.
“The kind of people that are drawn to the island are open-minded when it comes to food, and really care where ingredients come from. It’s great,” Moran says.
And Vancouver Island’s food scene is still evolving, with the long overdue arrival of Asian and other world cuisines, as well as a general elevation in culinary skills, thanks in part to the availability of chef tutorials online.
“It’s an exciting time to be cooking,” Harris says. “Now there’s a bit more glamour and romance.”
A seafood tower at The Courtney Room restaurant at the Magnolia Hotel in Victoria. Leila Kwok for The Courtney Room
A local secret no more
For now, there’s enRoute, and growing national recognition.
“To be included in the top 30 is an honour and a nice pat on the back for all the hard work we’ve done with the opening,” says Moran, who previously cooked in kitchens all over Europe and at some of B.C.’s top heli-ski resorts. “It’s a big morale booster.”
Longtime visitors to Tofino might remember 1909 Kitchen as that slightly dodgy pub on the waterfront. Today, it is coolly modern, with stunning views of Clayoquot Sound from its floor-ceiling windows. At its heart is a wood-fired oven where Moran roasts everything from pizzas to crispy cauliflower to tender, miso-glazed black cod.
“It’s ingredient driven,” Moran explains. “We try to work with high-quality products and not over-manipulate them.”
As for Harris, this is not his first dance with the awards: he was opening chef de cuisine at Agrius when it earned its Top 10 nod in 2016. But when the Magnolia Hotel decided to bring its restaurant in house and transform it into an elegant fine-dining room, Harris jumped at the opportunity to return to his roots in white-tableclothed hotel restaurants.
“I always loved that start-to-finish experience of how far you can go with fine dining … to really transport someone through the level of service and the quality of the food,” he says.
He’s delighted by the nomination, and the affirmation it brings to his “classically modern” cuisine that travels from house-cured charcuterie through to perfectly miniature mignardises.
“It’s a lot of validation,” Harris says. “And it will mean a lot of cool people will walk through the door.”
Recipes
The tuna tacos at Tofino Marina Resort on Vancouver Island. Leila Kwok for Tofino Marina Resort
Albacore Tuna & White Radish Tacos
By Paul Moran, executive chef of 1909 Kitchen at the Tofino Marine Resort.
10 oz (300 g) daikon radish
10 oz (300 g) albacore tuna
6 Tbsp (20 g) chopped chives
2 Tbsp (30 mL) white soy sauce
10 sheets (100 g) dried nori, torn
11/3 cup (325 mL) mayonnaise, preferably homemade
4 cups (1L) canola oil
3 sheets (40 g) phyllo pastry, shredded
1 lime, sliced
12 shiso leaves, torn
Thinly slice daikon radish into 2-by-2-inch (5 cm) “leaves” and store in cool water.
Slice albacore tuna into 1/2 oz (15 g) cubes (you should have about 20 similarly sized cubes). Toss with white soy and chives, cover and chill until ready to serve.
In a blender or food processor, blend together the nori and mayonnaise until it creates a smooth aioli. Store in a piping bag with a round tip and chill until ready to use. (Note that this will make more than you need; reserve the rest for garnishing other Japanese-flavoured dishes.)
In a deep-sided fry pan, heat the canola oil to 325 F (160 C) and quickly fry the shredded phyllo until it is lightly golden brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from oil and drain on absorbent paper.
To assemble: Remove daikon leaves from water and pat dry. Arrange on a platter. Place a dot of the nori aoli in the centre of each leaf. Add a piece of dressed tuna and a piece of torn shiso leaf. Finish with crispy phyllo and serve with a lime wedge.
Serves 4
The sidestripe shrimp cocktail at The Courtney Room restaurant at the Magnolia Hotel in Victoria. Leila Kwok for The Courtney Room
Sidestripe Shrimp Cocktail
Recipe by Sam Harris, executive chef of The Courtney Room at Victoria’s Magnolia Hotel.
Shrimp:
1 lb (454 g) sidestripe shrimp, shell on
8 cups (2 L) water (for cooking shrimp)
8 cups (2 L) ice water (to cool cooked shrimp)
Juice from 1 lemon
½ cup (125 mL) salt
Shrimp oil:
3/8 cup (100 mL) extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp (15 mL) sweet paprika
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
Cocktail sauce:
Diced tomato to taste
Creamed horseradish to taste
Ketchup to taste
Assembly:
1 cup (250 mL) crème fraîche
16 chives, sliced into 1 inch (2 cm) batons
16 leaves sheep sorrel (optional)
Preheat oven to 300 F (150 C). Peel shrimp and reserve shells for shrimp oil. Place peeled shrimp in a heatproof bowl. Put ice water in a separate bowl.
Bring water, salt and lemon juice to a simmer at 175 F (80 C) and pour over shrimp. Poach for 2 minutes, then, using a skimmer, remove shrimp from cooking liquid and plunge into ice water. Cool for 5 minutes, then strain and pat dry with a kitchen towel. Chill until ready to serve.
Make shrimp oil: Place shrimp shells on a baking sheet and roast in the oven for 10 minutes.
Heat olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add shrimp shells, paprika and sliced garlic and lightly sauté for about 5 minutes, until shells are pink and garlic is fragrant but not browned.
Transfer mixture to a high-speed blender and purée for 2 minutes on highest speed. Strain through a coffee filter and leave to cool to room temperature.
Make cocktail sauce: Mix together diced tomato, creamed horseradish and ketchup.
To assemble: Divide crème fraîche between 4 serving bowls. Top with cocktail sauce, shrimp, shrimp oil, chives and optional sheep sorrel. Serve with bread or crackers.
Standing on the Breakwater Barge at the Greater Victoria Harbour in Victoria, an unexpectedly strong gust of wind swayed the platform just enough to remind our group that we were actually floating on the ocean.
The Breakwater Barge at the Greater Victoria Harbour in Victoria offers music, food and drinks every Friday evening until Sept. 28. Photo Tourism Victoria
But looking around at the crowd enjoying local beer, cider, wine and live music, it was obvious a little wind was not going to dampen anyone’s spirits on this cool June evening. This is only the second year the Breakwater Barge has been open to the public, but the concept is has proven to be a popular one. Every Friday evening until Sept. 28, families, couples and individuals of all ages flock to the harbour at Ogden Point to check out popular food trucks, enjoy craft wine and beer, dance to local performers and take in the ocean view. Kids are very welcome, so for families it’s a great opportunity to enjoy a night out without paying for a babysitter.
There’s always lots going on in Victoria year-round, but there’s a special vibe in the summer when visitors and locals can enjoy the city and surrounding areas unencumbered by their MEC and North Face rain jackets.
During a recent visit to the Garden City we stayed at the Magnolia Hotel and Spa because of its proximity to so many attractions, including a 25-minute walk to Ogden Point and the Breakwater Barge. But staff at the Magnolia have taken visiting Victoria to a whole new level. They’ve created curated maps highlighting the best of the city for guests to use as guides during their stay — all within walking distance of the hotel — including the Rainy Day Trail, Craft Brewery Tour, Tapas Trail, Tea-riffic Trail, Beautiful Boutiques Trail, Best Places for Romance and the Running Trail.
Just a short walk from the Magnolia Hotel, Victoria’s Inner Harbour is where visitors and locals can find whale watching and boat tours. Photo Sandra Thomas
The Magnolia is considered a “boutique” hotel because of its size — the fact it’s smaller than many of its neighbouring properties was part of the appeal for my husband and me when booking our stay. The hotel is one very short block from Victoria’s Inner Harbour and despite the fact it’s not located directly on the water, we could see the ocean and harbour from our room thanks to a view corridor between buildings.
Our ocean view room at the Magnolia Hotel and Spa. Photo Sandra Thomas
The Inner Harbour is where you want to be if you’re considering popular activities such as whale watching expeditions, boat tours, scenic flights, horse-drawn carriage rides and double-decker bus tours. We were also just blocks away from the Royal B.C. Museum, B.C. Parliament buildings and the Victoria Conference Centre, where I was attending a three-day conference.
The Courtney Room in the Magnolia Hotel is popular for its oyster bar. Photo Magnolia Hotel
New to Victoria’s food scene is the Courtney Room at the Magnolia, where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner — imagine West Coast cuisine meets French bistro meets art nouveau. It’s where chef Sam Harris, formerly of Agrius Restaurant, celebrates local and seasonal ingredients with a French twist. We enjoyed some fresh-shucked oysters (of course), decadent steaks and — please take my advice and try these — Potatoes Courtney. Crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside — and cooked in duck fat— this adult version of tater tots has been wowing food writers since the Courtney opened in May.
The Courtney’s commitment to buying local includes ingredients from area producers, including Madrona Farm, Umi Nami Farmand Two Rivers Meats. An extensive craft beer list and thoughtful cocktail menu are even more reasons to check out the Courtney.
The Courtney Room at the Magnolia Hotel specializes in local ingredients, including fresh seafood. Photo Sandra Thomas
As we discovered, there’s a reason this elegant, yet unpretentious, hotel has been recognized as both top hotel in Canada and top luxury hotel in Canada by TripAdvisor in the Traveler’s Choice Awards.
If you go:
You can enjoy fireworks every Saturday night until Sept. 1 at Butchart Gardens. Photo Butchart Gardens
Every Saturday night throughout Sept. 1, visitors to Butchart Gardens can enjoy spectacular fireworks shows accompanied by choreographed music. Live entertainment takes place at the garden three hours prior to the fireworks shows. And did you know you can take a boat tour from Butchart Gardens? Tours from the gardens depart every 15 minutes from the wharf in Butchart Cove. To check out a complete schedule of event, visit butchartgardens.com/events.
Note: the World Federation of Rose Societies, held every three years, recently recognized Butchart Gardens with an award of excellence and a commemorative plaque at their recent conference.
The Yo-Yo takes riders high above the crowds at last year’s Saanich Fair. Photo Darren Stone, Times Colonist
Drop by the Saanich Fair to celebrate Western Canada’s oldest agricultural fair. Enjoy live music, dance performances, eating contests, auction/raffle draw, rides and concerts, including 54-40 and the Chris Buck Band.
The Rifflandia Festival brings dozens of popular musical performers to Victoria. Photo Darren Stone, Times Colonist
Sept. 13 to 16
The eleventh-annual Rifflandia Festival features a diverse lineup of artists across numerous stages, all within walking distance of Victoria’s historic downtown. This year’s lineup includes dozens of popular performers, including JessieReyez, Daniel Caesar, Lights, the Zolas, Hey Ocean! and more.
Getting there:
The V2V luxury ferry takes about three-and-a-half hours between Vancouver and Victoria, leaving plenty of time to take photos of the beautiful Georgia Straight. Photo Sandra Thomas
V2V Vacations is a luxury ferry that offers daily service between downtown Victoria and downtown Vancouver.
The cocktail scene continues to grow around the globe, and it’s no different in Victoria, British Columbia on Canada’s west coast.
While visiting the Magnolia Hotel& Spa on Vancouver Island, I had the opportunity spend a bit of time in their newly renovated restaurant and cocktail lounge, The Courtney Room. Following a $1.5 Million renovation, the Courtney Room emerges as a bright shining star on the Victoria food and cocktail scene.
According to The Courtney Room, “Taking cues from the old grand dame hotels of Paris, Sharon Bortolotto of BBA Design was inspired by the classic French bistro. The Courtney Room boasts high ceilings and is layered with elements of Art Nouveau to create a casually elegant ambience.”
Photo courtesy: Steve Drake
The food is amazing, and Chef Sam Harris (formerly of Agrius) has created an incredible menu that brings together the finest ingredients Vancouver Island has to offer. But more about the food in a later article… this visit is all about the great cocktails created by The Courtney Room bar team under the direction of head bar tender Clayton Thornber. On a hot summer day any choice from this trio will satisfy your thirst:
Photo courtesy: Steve Drake
MIDNIGHT IN OAXACA
The first drink (on the left) is called the Midnight in Oaxaca (pronounced wah-ha-ka), is a variation of a “maid style” cocktail. This drink is equal parts Tequila and Mezcal, fresh lime, simple syrup, cucumber and mint muddled, and habanero bitters. Garnished with a cucumber ribbon and mint sprig, it’s served over crushed ice, leaving you refreshed and ready for another. The perfect combination for a summer cocktail.
THE OAK BAY
This drink is a riff on a classic rum punch recipe from old English times. It is rum based with a splash of bourbon, fresh lemon, water, and a London fog tea syrup. It is called The Oak Bay because of it’s connection to England, and how strong the British roots are in Oak Bay, which is a charming village community tucked into the City in Victoria.
FRENCH 250
This fluted cocktail is their local take on a French 75, while paying homage to 250 – Victoria’s area code. The cocktail features Victoria Distillers Empress 1908 gin, fresh lemon, and a honey syrup made from local Wild Mountain honey in nearby Sooke, which is then topped up with Unsworth Charme de L’ile, which is a well known Vancouver Island produced prosecco style sparkling wine.
On your next visit to Victoria, British Columbia – be sure to spend a little time in The Courtney Room bar, sipping and experience some of the best cocktails in the region.
When considering Canada’s best food cities, Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal undisputedly clinch the title. And if you press further, destinations like Prince Edward Island and Quebec City shoot up as contenders. But there’s one Canadian city that’s quietly vying for epicurean attention: Vancouver Island’s Victoria.
Victoria’s food scene gets eclipsed by nearby Vancouver, but British Columbia’s capital has long earned its culinary cred: it was home to Canada’s first brewpub; it has a neighboring wine region; it serves one of the best high teas in the country; it boasts the nation’s oldest Chinatown; and Canada’s first chocolatier started here.
Dig in to find out why you should taste your way through the Pacific Northwest’s oldest city.
The Magnolia Hotel & SpaTHE MAGNOLIA HOTEL & SPA
WHERE TO STAY
For our Victoria culinary tour, we checked into The Magnolia Hotel & Spa, and not just because the Forbes Travel Guide Four-Star hotel has an excellent location mere blocks from the Inner Harbour or because of its plush, sophisticated accommodations.
The 64-room boutique hotel offers fun self-guided itineraries for guests called Curated Trails, a number of which revolve around food and drink. Here are highlights from Magnolia’s Culinary Trailblazers, Craft Brewery and Tea-riffic Trails tours, plus some other delicious spots we found along the way.
Duck at The Courtney RoomLEILA KWOK
WHERE TO DINE
The Courtney Room
The first stop is at the hotel’s chic brand-new restaurant that debuted in April. Come for fine dining or to soak up the sun on the new patio, which gives a glimpse of the domed capitol building, one of Victoria’s most-recognized sights. Then linger into the wee hours at the white marble bar for Midnight in Oaxaca cocktails (Los Siete Misterios Doba-Yej mezcal, lime, habanero bitters, mint, cucumber) and the irresistible potatoes Courtney (duck fat tater tots accompanied by onion dip).
At dinner, order the seasonal tasting menu to see how chef Sam Harris spotlights local ingredients in French dishes. A tender Yarrow Meadows duck breast is covered with crispy skin and comes with carrots, turnips and pickled rhubarb. Local halibut goes decadent with a pool of airy, ethereal whipped béarnaise and tarragon.
Add on the caviar service. The sustainable, organic Northern Divine pearls, chives and creamy “dip” (garlic, garlic and onion powder, crème fraîche, egg yolk, grapeseed and olive oils, lemon juice) on top of a housemade chip was one of the best bites on the menu. And opt for the vino pairings — you’ll get a nice sampling of the local Cowichan wine region.
A Sampling from OloJENNIFER KESTER
Olo Restaurant
The cozy space basks in a warm glow from its orange-yellow walls and birds-nest-like lighting fixtures. The food goes for an artful presentation, but it’s just as homey as the environs.
The addictive deep-fried semolina cubes with garlic mayo will have you requesting a second round. The vegetable platter gets an upgrade with a deeply smoky white bean hummus. For a seafood-heavy dish that won’t weigh you down, choose the sablefish collar with clams, potato, kale, daikon and shellfish butter.
Chef Kunal Ghose firmly established himself in Victoria’s food scene with popular restaurants like Red Fish Blue Fish and Fishhook. For his April-opened venture, he embraced Dobosala’s location fronting Pandora Avenue’s new bike lane and went with a fast-casual concept that has the only ride-through window in the city.
But it’s worth parking your two-wheeler and taking a seat inside the industrial eatery to savor Ghose’s bright, flavorful Indo-Pacific fusion. Try the crispy pakora with kimchi crema and tamari-tamarind ponzu; “squimp” onigiri — rice balls with Humboldt squid, Tofino shrimp, sockeye belly sashimi and horseradish mayo; and the adobo-gochujang chicken stuffed in a tortilla cone. Wash it down with a housemade mango-hibiscus iced tea.
Fresh, Handmade Pasta at La PastaLA PASTA
Victoria Public Market at the Hudson
At the small public market, save your appetite for La Pasta, which debuted in May. The spot churns out handmade pasta daily. Order the comforting carbonara with toothsome spaghetti and porchetta bits or the fusilli pesto topped with generous dollops of fresh ricotta. But first begin with antipasti like fried artichokes with lemon aioli for some brightness as well as the rich arancini.
Or venture over to Very Good Butchers. The first vegan butchery on Canada’s west coast, it specializes in plant-based “meat.” Try a dish featuring the smoky seitan bacon or the “pepperoni,” which gives more of a kick than its beef-and-pork counterpart.
Kid Sister Ice Cream
Hidden along Chinatown’s photogenic Fan Tan Alley — Canada’s narrowest street — sits this scoop shop. You can’t go wrong with from-scratch ice cream like the luscious salted caramel in a house-baked waffle cone, but the parlor is known for its paletas (Latin American popsicles upgraded with fresh fruit and fun ingredients) in creative flavors like quince Creamsicle; mango, black currant and lime; and mocha cheesecake.
Half a million cups of tea are poured annually at the Forbes Travel Guide Four-Star hotel, whose afternoon ritual has been a Victoria tradition since 1908. Don’t let the date fool you: the modern room overlooking the harbor makes for one of Canada’s best tea experiences.
Thoughtful details abound: the china bears the same timeless purple-and-pink pattern that King George VI and Queen Elizabeth chose for a 1939 dinner party they hosted at the hotel; the menu arrives in an elegant wooden box that also holds samples of each high-quality blend; the housemade strawberry jam uses local berries, honey from the hotel’s beehives and lavender from its rooftop garden; and servers are warm, welcoming and ready with just the right recommendations.
Even if you’re not one for tea, come for the Empress 1908 gin. The hotel’s small-batch, butterfly-pea-blossom-infused pour possesses an indigo hue that turns lavender when you add citrus or tonic. The color-changing G&T is a must for your Instagram feed, but also for its great taste, with juniper and grapefruit notes.
Phillips Brewing & Malting Co.JENNIFER KESTER
Phillips Brewing & Malting Co.
The brewery launched in 2001, but it added the city’s first tasting room in April. Head there to sample the easy-to-drink Blue Buck or Robert Service Stone Fired Ale.
But everyone will find something to sip here. Check out the all-natural house sodas — i.e., made without syrups or other artificial sweeteners — like the effervescent, Creamsicle-like Dare Devil orange.
Little Jumbo
Seek out a small neon elephant above the Pacific Transfer Building sign, enter and go to the end of the hallway for this restaurant/bar. The brick-walled, pressed-copper ceiling space is an inviting local favorite for well-crafted cocktails.
Follow the Victorians and ask for A Convicted Melon (Altos tequila, Campari, hibiscus, honeydew melon, local Olive the Senses coconut balsamic, Bittermens molé bitters) or the Gin and Tea (Boodles Gin, Silk Road’s Alchemist’s Brew and Berry Victoria teas, lime and flowers).
Silk Road TeaSILK ROAD TEA
WHERE TO SHOP
Silk Road Tea
In this tea-loving city, there’s no better souvenir than local leaves. Tea master Daniela Cubelic makes exquisite blends at her Chinatown shop. You’ll notice that Silk Road teas appear all over the city (including Little Jumbo, The Courtney Room and rooms at the Magnolia).
Pick up health-targeting teas, like the antioxidant-boosting Beau-Tea-Ful Skincare (white and green leaves, rooibos, calendula, lemon balm, peppermint, lemongrass, lavender) or sinus-relieving Allergy & Hay Fever Defense (take the green tea, peppermint, nettle, holy basil, rooibos and eucalyptus blend three weeks before allergy season to prep your immune system). Or try the 8 Immortals, a special reserve oolong with floral notes that’s supposed to help longevity.
Rogers’JENNIFER KESTER
Rogers’ Chocolates
While you can purchase Rogers’ chocolates all over Canada, Charles “Candy” Rogers started his business in Victoria in 1885. His first confection, the Victoria Cream, launched his career as the country’s first chocolatier.
Pop into the original Government Street shop, which seems frozen in time. Staff dressed in starched white button-down shirts and black ties stand ready to sate your craving from the wood shelves and glass cases filled with chocolates. The must-buy sweet is Rogers’ Victoria Cream, wrapped in a waxy pink-gingham paper. Enrobed in dark chocolate, the discs are made with fresh cream and fruits and don’t contain any additives. Our favorite was the not-overly-sweet, nut-studded hazelnut.
Jennifer Kester is Forbes Travel Guide‘s Executive Editor. Her finger is on the pulse of the latest in luxury travel, spanning hotels, food, culture, top destinations and more.
YAM Magazine’s restaurant issue is out, and they have named The Courtney Room Victoria’s Best New Restaurant!
“Our favourite new restaurant is The Courtney Room in the Magnolia Hotel, a stylish bistro that embodies Parisian flavour. From the oyster bar in the casual main level, to chef Sam Harris’ smoked duck salad, leek vichyssoise and dry-aged steaks in the dining room upstairs, there’s a lot to explore in this modern, French-inspired menu. And with a $1.5 million renovation under its belt, it’s simply a stellar spot to dine out.”
Got 48 hours to kill in B.C.’s capital city? We’ve got a few suggestions.
If our experiences are any indication, Victoria should really adopt the motto, “Why aren’t you here more often?” It’s the sort of place that, thanks to its careful blend of foodie sophistication and small-town charm, makes you wonder why you haven’t been spending all your weekends on the island. Here’s where to eat, stay and play next time you’re in town.
Stay Here
The Empress may get all the glory, but Magnolia Hotel—steps away from basically everything—is the true crown jewel of Victoria’s hotel offerings. Rooms are understated but elegant (the fireplace! the down pillows!) and bathrooms come stocked with L’Occitane toiletries. It’s within walking distance from pretty much any worthwhile resto, but the recently opened (and quite excellent) Courtney Room—helmed by Agrius alum Chef Sam Harris—is right downstairs with its mashup of West Coast locavorism and classic French fare, so you can stumble down for a platter of house-cured charcuterie or duck fat potatoes without even putting on a coat. If you’re ready to venture further afield, borrow on of the hotel’s bikes and its curated maps that plot routes of the city’s breweries or tea lounges for you.
Eat Here
It’s no surprise that the winner for Best Victoria at this year’s Restaurant Awards would be on our checklist for a perfect weekend in Vic, but we’re about to get a little crazy and slate Agrius for brunch, not dinner. It’s the best time to maximize your intake of their bread—made in-house at the attached bakery, Fol Epi—and to tuck into beautifully plated dishes that put Vancouver’s brunch game to shame: sourdough French toast with cardamom ice cream, heirloom bean tempeh and daily terrines.
Come dinner, though, you’d be well served to snag a table at locally focused Olo in Chinatown, and put yourself at the mercy of chef/owner Brad Holmes. A tasting menu (five courses at $68 per head, with wine pairing an extra $40) might result in plates of alder smoked salmon with culture cream and beets, dreamy potato gnocchi served up in a bed of pea puree and black garlic sauce, or an asparagus salad that will make you question what the point of every other vegetable is.
Drink Here
Phillips’ newly expanded tasting room, opened this May, is rowdy and friendly—the perfect spot to mingle with locals at long wooden tables, Solaris white peach ale in hand. If none of the 16 taps are speaking to you, you’ve got options: the brewery recently began dabbling in the fine art of distilling under their Fermentorium label, producing a stand-out gin infused with hand-foraged B.C. botanicals (think fir, cascade hops and lavender in addition to juniper) that makes for a fine G&T when paired with Phillips’ Soda Works dry tonic. Pair whatever you’re sipping with a cheese board for optimum results.
The compact Little Jumbo is a hive of activity when night falls, with bartenders shaking, stirring and garnishing at dizzying speeds to whip up selections from their creative drinks menu. Beets by Jumbo pairs bourbon and bointreau with golden beets (!), honey and horseradish; A Convicted Melon adds coconut balasamic and molé bitters to tequilla. Grab a seat at the bar and try to keep up with the action.
Do This
Victoria holds tight to its British heritage in many ways, but the city’s obsession with tea time is the most obvious one. Embrace it, whether planning a full-fledged tea crawl or hitting up a few key spots at which to sip the afternoon away. Skip the touristy Empress tradition and instead make your way to the shabby-chic Venus Sophia tea room, which offers a High Tea experience that’s less Queen Liz, more Princess Kate: pick a pot (rose black tea, anyone?) to pair with a tiered platter of treats (delicate lemon tarts, crustless strawberry-and-marscapone sandwiches).
Down the street at Silk Road Tea, tea is regarded as less of a Sunday afternoon treat-yo’self experience and more as a wellness product—though the on-site spa treatments certainly split the difference. Stock up on Detox Wellness Tea (a blend of dandelion, nettle, rosemary and blueberry leaf), ginseng and ginger root Chinese green tea, or cedar-and-pine-infused bath salts. Silk Road has been in operation since the early ’90s, helmed by Daniela Cubelic (Canada’s “Queen of Tea,” says the Globe and Mail) and dedicated to organic growing practices and preaching the gospel of antioxidants.
Getting There
V2V ferry departs right from the convention centre and drops you off three hours later in downtown Victoria, and is more of a cruise than a ferry: the seats kick back into recliners, staff deliver wine, beer and three-course meals right to you and if there needs to be a detour to see pods of orcas playing in the waves, so be it. Sure, it’s a slower journey than a seaplane or even BC Ferries, but the downtown-to-downtown car-free convenience and scenic route make you wonder what’s so great about the rush, anyways.
Back in January, Matt and I got to take off to somewhere that’s very near and dear to our hearts: beautiful Victoria! As you might already know, we started dating there 9 years ago (more on our story with a special Flytographer shoot that we got to experience while in Vic next Friday!), so needless to say it’s somewhere we really love. Even if I hadn’t gone to university, met my longterm partner and had basically the best uni experience ever there, I would still be head over heels for Victoria though, and I think that’s really evident once you watch the video below – hit play then carry on reading the rest of my guide!
It’s got history and it’s got elegance through and through, but it’s also becoming an increasingly young city, with lots of cool restaurants, bars, pubs, festivals and cafes sitting side-by-side with Victoria institutions. For those of you who don’t know, Victoria is the capital of BC so it’s also home to our provincial government HQ’s, and it’s named after Queen Victoria so like its namesake, it’s got an element of British charm. Whether it’s the famed gardens throughout the whole city to it lovely cobblestoned alleyways, it’s got that Brit vibe while also being home to a thriving multicultural scene (its Chinatown is the first one in all of Canada!).
Needless to say, we had the best time ever visiting our old hometown with Tourism Victoria. It’s all in that video above but wanted to make sure I shared even more tips so that you’re fully prepared for your next trip there! Just a note as well that while Vancouverites have likely headed out to Vic, for those visiting Vancouver or the west coast of Canada for the first time, you must pencil in Victoria as well! And you’ll see in one moment just how easy it is to get there, so without further ado…
How to get there
Harbour Air has to be one of my absolute favourite ways to travel. Not only do you get the most incredible views on your way to your destination (and I mean, you can’t really beat views in the west coast – always takes my breath away) but the whole travel experience is beyond easy, efficient and just downright lovely. Check in right in downtown Vancouver’s Coal Harbour (another major plus, central locations are so key!) and relax in the luxe Harbour Air lounge until you board. Hop on the sea plane (super cozy despite its petite size!) and then make sure you have your camera ready because you’ll want to document the whole trip. From stunning views of Vancouver on take off to beautiful island and coastal views on the 30 minute trip to Victoria, I can promise you’ll be enthralled the whole time. And there’s something about travelling in a sea plane that I find very soothing! Again, all around the trip is 30 minutes which sure beats the hours-long journey on the ferry (I did that journey far too many times as a student) and not only is it more efficient, but incredibly beautiful and comfortable. Can’t recommend Harbour Air enough!
What to see
Victoria is an incredibly walkable city and mercifully minimal on the hill front so while you should have comfy shoes on (especially if you do one of Magnolia Hotel’s city tours on foot or bike [PS they have bikes at your disposal to use for the day]), don’t worry about needing to sort out transportation – your own two feet or bike should be all that you’ll need! Start at the harbour and wander along the parliament building’s front lawn, visit the beautiful harbour and keep your eyes peeled for seals or stop by the museum! Then take in the historic downtown centre, which is so beautiful and really easy to meander around. Take in some serious Victoria institutions dotted along the Bastion Square area or Trounce Alley (Irish Times was a staple when we were younger, as was Pagliacci’s for Italian!) then head towards Chinatown. As I mentioned above, Victoria’s Chinatown is the first in Canada and you can really get a sense of history as you wander its streets, dipping into the famed Fan Tan Alley off of Pandora to check out the eclectic shops there. Continue east to take in some of the newer developments happening in Vic near Rock Bay – so many cool breweries, cafes, etc!
Where to stay
I adore Magnolia Hotel. Located right in the centre of downtown, it’s close to everything but because it’s tucked up just on Courtney Street, you feel like you have a little sanctuary in town. I’ve stayed here twice and I’m always so impressed by their stunning decor, their beautiful views of the harbour and city, their pillow-like beds and serious attention to detail. Take their city guides for instance – I love that they take on the work of planning out themed itineraries for their guests so that they can have the best possible experience in Victoria, from the brewery tour that Matt and I did to Bikes, Beans & Blooms (dying to do this in the summer!) and the Tapa Trail tours! Speaking of tapas, their in-hotel restaurant Catalano Restaurant & Ciccheti Bar provides the perfect first stop for a Mediterranean culinary experience – love all their tapas and their breakfast is incredible too. Really can’t recommend it enough!
Where to eat
There are so many great places to eat in Victoria but I have to say our experience at Nourish Kitchen & Cafe this time around really blew us away. It was literally one of the best meals we’ve ever experienced. In a beautiful James Bay heritage house, you immediately feel as if you’re walking into a good friend’s house (albeit a beyond beautiful house!). From the bone broth bar (which was so perfect as we were freezing) to its selection of local and absolutely delectable appies and entrees (their cashew cheese has forever changed my life), you get to really walk through Victoria plate by plate, getting to try beyond fresh dishes that are all created with local produce and ingredients. Their selection of drinks was also unparalleled and got us so excited to try some local breweries and mead (yes mead!) producers. You must go. Trust me.
As mentioned above, we also got to experience both tapas and breakfast at Catalano and were blown away by both. We also had breakfast at Blue Fox Cafe (a serious Victoria institution) on our last day and absolutely loved it. Discover Coffee was our favourite pick for an afternoon pick-me-up and we really loved Parachute’s eclectic offering of ice creams (and think this would be the perfect spot for a summer treat if you took on biking the city, which you really should!).
Not pictured was our trip to UVic where I got to go back to my favourite desk in the library (such a nerd), walk around the SUB and by all our buildings. I know it’s not for everyone but I’m someone who truly loved being in school. I wish I could go back to university all the time for another degree but since it wouldn’t really apply to my current career, keep putting it off…one of these days though! I’m just a naturally scholastic type and those years where all I really had to do was to learn as much as I could, hang out with my friends, bike to the beach and work a couple shifts a week at Cactus Club were some of the best years of my life. I just get so overwhelmed with emotion whenever I go back and have all those amazing memories come back, and I’ll always love this special town so much. A big, huge thank you to Tourism Victoria for such an amazing experience and again, can’t stress enough how much you’ll fall for this town – you must visit!
Make sure you’re subscribed to my YouTube channel for even more travel diaries, beauty tutorials, style tips and so much more! I have some really special fitness/health content coming your way next week, can’t wait to share it! And with that, happy Friday everyone! Have an amazing weekend!
Published February 17, 2017 by Alexandra Grant on To Vogue or Bust
Vancouver had the worst snowy weather this winter so we just wanted to go somewhere to get some fresh air. Going on the Island is a great choice for us given the distance is short and we haven’t been to Victoria for a very long time. We will soon post our itinerary – 48 hours in Victoria for our recommendations of places to go. Don’t forget to check it out!
For us romantic getaway is a matter of having a comfortable stay and spending quality time together. The home away home at Magnolia Hotel & Spa is the perfect place for us. We just wanted to relax, unwind and escape from snow, this luxurious boutique hotel checks off all our requirements .
The room we had on the top floor has charming interiors, king sized bed and gorgeous postcard view of Parliament Buildings and Harbour. With a comfortable couch and lounge chair by the fireplace, we could sit there all day to watch the sun goes down and Parliament Buildings light up while sipping our Prosecco. Small nice touches like warm welcome at reception, having our bed made ready and chocolates on the bed side tables make the entire experience personal and memorable. I really like how the hotel is tastefully decorated and not overly done. The property may not be the most extravagant like the ones you find in Vegas. But that’s how I like my travel accommodation to be… cozy and elegant.
We spent most of the time cozy up in our room, just didn’t want to rush our vacation. We took the itinerary lightly to visit a few places around Downtown and they are all within 10-15 mins by walk. If we chose not to deal with the miserable weather, there are a handful of good reviewed restaurants like 10 Acres Bistro and specialty cafe Pour Coffee just right around the corner.
Of course the best activity of slow travel is to have a delicious brunch! Their restaurant and room service menu offer great selection of hot breakfasts and my favourite is the stuffed waffles with smoked bacon and swiss cheese with maple syrup…..so yummy!!! I wish that’s how I start my day every day.
Will and I got fully recharged after this relaxing weekend, I feel like it’s too short and I haven’t got the time to indulge in their Spa. I wish I can come back in summer time to see more about this beautiful city and look forward to trying their Spa service upon our next visit to Victoria.
